Thereβs been a major conversation happening lately among sewists about size inclusivity and the lack thereof in the indie sewing community. Itβs been intense, uncomfortable, and necessary.
Here are some of my thoughts.
Size charts reinforce toxic norms.
TheΒ average American womanΒ wears size 16-18 misses, but 16-18 tends to be on the top end of misses (βregularβ or βnormalβ) sizing, or these sizes tip over into plus sizing.
There are fewer fashion options for bodies that measure in the plus-sized range, and the options are less fashion forward. In recent years, some non-runway-model-sized actresses haveΒ shared their difficulties finding designer gownsΒ for events. Ladiesβ lingerie behemoth Victoriaβs Secret has nearlyΒ one-third of the underwear marketΒ β but its marquee event, its annual fashion show,Β utterly lacks body diversity.
So, even though the average is 16-18, garment creators constantly send the message that greater body volume is inconvenient and not ideal.
This passionate blog postΒ from Shannon, a queer, fat sewist, talks about impact and intent. Lots of people in fashion and sewing donβt intend to exclude marginalized bodies, but their choices on sizing charts and models send messages about whatβs valued when it comes to beauty and style. (Itβs a powerful read; highly recommended.)
Itβs important to take a hard look at oneβs own biases.
Iβve never worn plus-sized clothing. Because of this, I have no doubt that Iβve benefited from biases that favor βskinnyβ people.
It makes me sad to think that my bodyβs been labeled βgoodβ as other, more voluminous bodies have been labeled βbad.β I donβt need to tell you that this idea is reinforced CONSTANTLY. (Cough, diet culture, cough.)
What effect has this had on MY biases as Iβve moved through the world? I donβt own a scale because Iβd rather not know my mass; if itβs not the βmagicβ number, I get anxious. And I also judge the squishiness of my tummy on the daily.
Iβm not fat, but the FEAR of fat is real. So, if Iβm afraid of fat, how do you think I (unconsciously) treat souls who live in fat bodies? Ugh, this question fills me with shame.
A body does not define who you are as a person.
I love my body and what it does for me. It let me carry two beautiful babies. It lets me run, lift weights, practice yoga, and ride my bike. It lets me enjoy physical sensations: kisses from my husband, the warm sun on my skin, the bitterness of a cup of coffee.
But, my body is not me. I believe that Iβm a soul who lives in a body.
The way you love β yourself and others β is what defines you as a person. This is elementary school stuff: the idea that judging people based on what they look like is a bad idea that sells everyone short β the judge and the judged.
Pattern designers have been listening to the call for size inclusivity. For example, Helenβs Closet aims toΒ expand its size rangeΒ by the end of 2019, and Closet Case Patterns is working onΒ updating its range, too.
In the interest of size inclusivity, I suggest refreshing your social media to include a greater diversity of sewists. Iβve done it, and itβs made me think about my practice in a whole new way. A great place to start is to followΒ Curvy Sewing CollectiveΒ on Instagram.
Whew. Thatβs some heavy stuff. This dialogue about size inclusivity has given me so much to think over as a burgeoning pattern designer, and I hope it challenges some of your ways of thinking, too.
What are you thoughts on size inclusivity? Please sound off (respectfully) in comments. Thanks for reading!
This post first appeared in the February 2019 edition of the Sie Macht email newsletter. If you like what you read here, please consider adding your email to the Sie Macht mailing list for monthly sewing radness. π€π©βπ€
Photo byΒ Daria VolkovaΒ onΒ Unsplash
Thank you for including the source for the average size being 16-18. I’ve seen that quoted so many places and always wondered where it came from. I’m curious about the average size of European women / international women as well.
As a (very, VERY small-time) pattern designer myself, I can give one-and-a-half reasons why I’ve never drafted patterns in larger sizes: most of my patterns are things I draft for myself. I’m a size 40 or 42, so exactly in the middle of the standard 34 to 48 size range. So grading up and down within the standard sizes is easy. To be honest I don’t know how to grade plus sizes, and there is very little information about how to do so. So yes, plus-sized patterns are harder to create, because there is not enough easily-available information about how.
Hi, Emily. Thanks for sharing your two cents.
Thanks for bringing up the difficulty in grading plus-sized patterns. I think that’s something a lot of designers struggle with. The Winifred Aldrich book I’m using to draft patterns goes up to size 26 – that’s a 50-inch (127 cm) hip. (Her size chart starts at 6 with a 33-inch (84 cm) hip.)
When I finally get to the point of releasing a pattern, I want my size chart to be inclusive. I reached out to Cashmerette, asking about their size charts, and they said they use the Alvanon plus chart for drafting: https://alvanon.com/resources/alvaform-measurements-specs/.
NOW – I’m not exactly sure if one can use the flat-pattern-drafting instructions from Aldrich WITH larger size measurements. That’s something I’ll need to experiment with. I think it’s worth reaching out to pattern designers in the community with questions about plus-sized pattern drafting. Some of that info is proprietary-ish, but the worst they could say is no. Honestly, I haven’t done much research as to books/publications or YouTube/vid instruction on the topic. I’m not there yet in my designer journey.
I wonder if maybe draping isn’t a better way to develop plus-sized patterns? Anyone out there with insight?
I agree that this has been a very hot topic. So many have allowed emotion to cloud their judgement when it comes to clothing and pattern size.
I’m “full figured, curvy, fat”…whatever you want to call it. I’m this way due to an injury that makes exercise difficult. BUT my eating choices and lack of ALL exercise is what got me where I’m at. That’s on me, I make no excuses for the extra pounds that are there due to eating junk food. Too many people will not take responsability for their size. Granted there is a small percentage of people who have no control over weight due to health issues. They gain, or can’t lose, weight no matter how well they eat. That’s a small percentage of people.
That being said…There is pressure to be thin and the sewing industry puts its share of the pressure on people to be smaller. The one thing that I really like about the big 4 is they have kept their original sizing and not changed over to vanity sizing like RTW and most Indy pattern companies. It makes it easier in many ways since the size you are in a Butterick pattern is pretty much the same in a Simplicity pattern.
As for the limit in pattern sizing…I can see why there’s a cut off in sizing. The larger the person, women especially, the more varied the location of curves. Not saying smaller women aren’t varied, it’s just much more pronounced in larger women. That makes it harder for pattern designers to decide where to put the extra width and sometimes length. I think we all need to keep in mind that a pattern is just a starting point. It’s not going to fit most people well out of the envelope. As sewists we have such a great opportunity to customize the patterns to fit our unique bodies, no matter our size! A great fit will be much more flattering than a sloppy one. The lack of being able to get a great fit is what made me quit sewing for years. I recently found a gal named Designer Joi on Craftsy. Her 2 classes helped me get close to the fit I was after. I used a size 10 pattern (I’m a 16 up top at a 20 bottom) and customized it to fit my body. So the pattern size doesn’t really matter. I started following her on FB live and she was able to work with me through email to get that perfect fit, better than I ever imagined!
After working with her I made an 80’s size XS pattern fit! It didn’t look right as a flat pattern, but the fit was amazing! Now I’m enrolled in her FB pattern and fit club learning to make my own patterns so I don’t need to find fashionable patterns that fit, I see something I like and can usually make my own pattern using my custom sloper pattern. It’s been an amazing journey.
I think it comes down to what you really want out of a pattern. Are you willing to work for a great fit, or do you want it perfect right out of the envelope (or fresh off the printer)? A good fit right off won’t happen for 90% of people no matter their size. We all just need to realize that no matter our size we have control over fitting a pattern, even if weight is something we feel we have little control over.
If you find it too difficult to shed the pounds, or are happy being a larger/curvey person then learn how to make the patterns fit. There are some great free tutorials out there and even more amazing paid classes that can teach how to make a pattern fit any body. Please, if you are tired of the current “norm” not fitting then look into some the great resources that are available. We sew because we enjoy it and want things that fit well, so make the extra effort to create patterns that fit!
Hey, Brooke! Thanks for your thoughtful reply and perspective! Much appreciated.
I’m so glad you had an awesome experience with Designer Joi. I’ve heard good things about her. Her columns in Sew News (I think?) are VERY informative.
You bring up a WONDERFUL point about putting in the work to make a pattern fit. Like I mentioned in the post, I’ve never worn plus-sized patterns, BUT I always have to make mods to whatever I sew. I was working on a post this morning about sewing my first pair of Ginger jeans, and I wrote about how I went through three rounds of fitting. Every body is different; every pattern needs tweaking (if you’re not satisfied with the fit).
I think what frustrates some curvy sewists is that they don’t have a decent jumping-off point for mods if they don’t have a lot of fitting experience.
I really enjoyed your comment Brooke as I feel that youβve said what I think. But as someone who is not plus sized I have felt unable to weigh in. But as someone from a plus size family I find the topic quite interesting as my parents are from cultures where being bigger is a sign of wealth and as a teenager I felt I was too thin and that a UK size 14/16 was what I should be aiming towards but I wasnβt.
But as you said learning how to adjust patterns to fit is a learning curve for all sewers. Iβm glad Cashmerette exists as that company provides pattern based for sewers to work with. But individuals need to take responsibility for a pet they play in their body shape- I do realise this may seem an unfair comment but itβs what I think. I also can totally accept that some people get to their size through health reasons outside of their control but thatβs not the case for all
Hi, Martina! Thanks for reading and commenting.
Bodies – and the clothes we put them on – are so incredibly personal. Both your body and your clothes say something to the world at large. I think it’s up to the world at large to reserve judgment and treat everybody (and body!) with compassion.
I’m also glad there are folks like Cashmerette and Designer Joi who can help sewists fit body volume in a way that makes them comfortable.
Martina,
You have such an interesting view point. I rarely think about the slim people who want to put on weight. I have known one person who wanted to put on pounds due to her lack of curves. She was shaped like a rod and always felt she looked like a boy. She used push up bras to give herself some definition and had a pair of shorts that had padding at the hips and bum. She was thrilled after her son was born! She finally had some curves and has been able to keep that extra weight on. She’s still super small, but not “rod” shaped (her word).
I think we all just need to learn to accept the bodies we are given and do our best to keep them healthy, no matter the size.
Erin,
I’m not sure is No I writes for Sew News or not. I know she has a piece in the current Threads mag. Most of her writing is on her website and FB pages. She has a couple great books out right now and has one that’s planned to come out in May. Her Fit book was pretty cheap used on Amazon. That one covers the stuff she did in the Craftsy classes. Her other book is about design. It’s pretty basic stuff you can find all over the web, but is a great book to use for practice.
Ladies, and any men, please know that we all hate something about our bodies, no matter the size. We need to embrace who we are now and strive to be the us we can be. If we can achieve that then our size won’t matter so much. Just try to make your sewing fit you as you are and continue trying to be the best person you can be. If our inside is glowing it will show through, then our size won’t matter to anyone, even ourselves!
Hear, hear, Brooke! Thanks for your comment.