I wanted to post a blow-by-blow pattern review and tips for sewing McCall’s M6696 shirtdressΒ (affiliate link), sewing friends. Alas, my fitting skills came up short. But hey, at least I posted today, right?
I fought this pattern all weekend, spending most of it in my underwear, sewing and trying on the muslin, sewing and trying on the muslin, repeat ad infinitum.
(Through THAT process I concluded that I need a sewing robe, something luxe to slip on and off while I’m working. But let’s return to the fitting story.)
I scoured blogs, watched YouTube vids, and pored over the fitting chapters of my sewing books. And this is the best I could do:
Let’s talk about what’s happening, in no particular order:
- I removed the comically poufy gathers from the back bodice. They were HUGE, a common complaint from bloggers who’ve made M6696. The slim-fitting straight-skirt view looks best with a tidy back.
- The back bodice looks slightly wonky because it’s pinned for a swayback adjustment. I made the adjustment on the paper pattern piece and didn’t re-cut and sew it for the muslin.
- The back of the dress β the flatness you can see in the side view photo β haunts me. I don’t have a prominent bum, but I look like a pancake in this dress. No bueno.
- I thought the bodice fit well, but looking at these photos, I’m not so sure. It looks too big.
RELATED: My Favorite Sewing Books
The agony and the ecstasy
When I thought I’d crushed the bodice, I was ecstatic. Getting a bodice right is happy times for a sewist.
When I spent Saturday and Sunday trying to get the skirt to recognize that I do indeed have SOME booty in the pants, I was in agony. I tried swayback adjustments, lengthening the darts, adding length between the skirt waist and hip point (because I am long hipped). The fit didn’t improve and I burned through bobbin thread like mad.
I tidied my sewing room Monday and worked on something else. I needed a reset from M6696.
Tuesday I was back on the M6696 train. (For the record, it’s not an express train.)
Revelations about my fitting skills
Turns out, I’m decent at fitting WHEN IT’S EASY. For example, I’m a fitting genius when it comes to adding length to a bodice.
I have miles to go to fit with competence. And it’s going to be rough, because I don’t have a fitting buddy.
As I worked on M6696, I realized that I need some in-person training on how to fit. I need to observe and practice HOW to correctly manipulate a muslin for fitting and transfer those adjustments to paper pattern pieces. I need help recognizing what is a good fit and what falling short looks like. (Case in point, why oh why did I think my bodice fit?)
TOPIC SPOTLIGHT: FITTING
Flat Pattern Measuring for Fit Adjustments
How to Make a Full Bust Adjustment on T-Shirts (No Darts)
Sewing Pants, Part 1: The Measurements You Need for Success
Sewing Pants, Part 2: Altering Pants Pattern Pieces
Sewing Pants, Part 3: A Completed Pair of Hampshire Trousers
My body type analysis (aka, me in my underwear)
M6696 update: Worshipping at the altar of Nancy Zieman
Books are only going to take me so far now. And while I looked at various Craftsy courses on fitting (and I’ll probably do a few of those, too), I’m at the point where I need live instruction for this hands-on craft.
I know I’ll ask better questions about fitting if I can spend time with a teacher, and written guides and videos will make more sense afterward. Do you get that, too β where you take a class and then go back to reading about the topic and everything is an “aha” moment?
OK, now I want to hear from you β what adjustments do YOU think I need to make on this muslin? I’m leaning toward cutting a smaller size. Do you think that’s necessary? Seriously, guys β this is a cry for help! H-E-L-P!
P.S. ICYMI, my last blog post was a vlog about progress on my 2017 sewing goals. There’s a VERY interesting link in the comments about sewing vlogs as a whole. Check it out!
P.P.S. Let’s throwback to a garment that DIDN’T give me fitting fits:Β How I sew a muslin + Sew Caroline Larchmont T.
Hi Erin! There is still too much fabric in the back bodice–I think that is throwing you off. I also wonder if the waistband is a tad high? you may want to adjust that and take in the waistline into the high high hip of the skirt at that point. Do move around in the muslin so you can see what type of ease you need for regular motion. Otherwise, you are on the right path here! And, always remember that muslin is a bit ugly π Call me if you need an eye.
Hi, Nancie! Thanks for your insight. VERY helpful! And I’ll reach out if I stay stuck! π
Hey Erin,
The front of the skirt and the bodice look pretty good ( you have ease to wear it and sit, etc.), and of course we know the back bodice and skit do not, if the bodice is .25-.50 longer, and I think you should add .25 to the width of the waist band too for proportion. Make sure the skirt & bodice fronts match up to each other and the same for the back bodice & skirt. It looks to me as it the darts are not big enough or you might be right to cut a smaller size for only the back bodice & skirt…and do not forget that length.
I highly recommend the Vogue book of sewing….I learned so much from it, and it may help you too. I also recommend anything from Sandra Betzina too. She is awesome! Keep on sewing sister!!
Thanks, Cheryl! I’ve heard good things about the Vogue book. I have the Reader’s Digest big book o’ sewing from the 70s (a thrift store find), and it’s wonderful!
Wow, Nancie’s observations are great! I agree, back bodice is too big, (perhaps too big in the front too?)upper hip maybe too big in the back. It will be such a great pattern for you when you’re done!
Thanks for your insight, Kathleen!
I’m a bit late to the party but I am trying to get a muslin of this dress to fit me. Based on your observations maybe I should give up now. The size I have cut is too big on me and the whole thing wants to sit further back on me which makes the front rise up. Perhaps the gathers are causing this.
Hi, Valerie! You know, this dress STILL is a WIP for me! So embarrassing. And, TBH, I’m not sure when I’m going to get around to it.
I know that when I do, I’m definitely cutting a smaller size. Sounds like that’s what your next step should be, too.
I wrote a post on how to measure pattern pieces that might be helpful to you.
Good luck, and I hope it works out for you! And if you want to spike it, that’s OK, too. Sewing is supposed to be fun!