Hey hey, would you believe the last time I did a sewing pattern post (that wasn’t a Sie Macht patten) it was for this exact pattern — the Lander pants?
When I sewed these cropped gold denim Lander pants, I declared them my “Spirit Pants,” the one pant to rule them all.
“The high waist is DOING THINGS for my short legs, and it makes my waist look SNATCHED.”
For the record, I still stand by this statement.
Come along with me as I chat about sewing an encore pair of Landers, this time in white-and-blue stripes.
RELATED: Super-High-Waisted Lander Pants in Gold Denim
Pattern Description and Sizing
The Lander pants, from True Bias, are a straight-legged pant (or short) with an exposed button fly, patch pockets, and belt loops. The pattern has three views: shorts, cropped, and full length.
I sewed a size 2 with heavy modifications (see below).
The pattern is designed for non-stretch bottomweight fabrics.
This fun striped denim is non-stretch and pretty heavy — I would guess 10-12 ounces per yard.
I acquired this fabric from a big destash advertised on Facebook Marketplace. I thought it would be good for either bibs or Lander pants because of its railroad-stripe-ish-ness.
The bright blue stripes are a lot, yes, and they made my eyes go funny a few times when I was cutting the fabric. But I’m so glad I stuck with it, because I think the stripes add levity to this pair of pants.
BTW, did you know that railroad stripe is *officially* called hickory cloth or hickory stripe? GTK should you be shopping for some.
RELATED: Pattern Fitting Tips for Woven Jogger Pants (Pivot-and-Slide Method)
Striped Lander Modifications
I used the pattern pieces I modified for my first Landers to sew these stripey guys.
To refresh your memory, here’s how I changed the pattern:
✂️ Reduced the waistband to 28 inches.
✂️ Increased the hip circumference to 39.5 inches.
✂️ Added 2.75 inches to the crotch depth.
The biggest mod this time around was going with a zippered fly vs. a button fly.
I thought sewing a zipper would be faster than making a bunch of buttonholes.
(Normally, a zipper would be faster, but I ran into an issue; keep reading.)
RELATED: How to Spot Common Pants Fitting Problems
What I Love About These Pants
Even though I think it might be out of style at this point, I love the raw hem. It’s a nice contrast to the tidiness of the squared-off patch pockets.
To keep the hem from fraying indefinitely, I did a line of zig-zag stitching above the raw edge.
I still adore the mega crotch depth of these pants. The waistband grazes the ribs and I love how it sucks everything into to place. Plus, shirts stay tucked in.
Landers for Cooler Weather
I love a cropped pant, but they’re hard to wear during the winter, especially if there’s snow. So, I don’t wear my cropped gold Landers for many months of the year. (Gotta love the upper Midwest.)
But, now I have full-length Lander pants! My November-through-April wardrobe has been upgraded!
What Could Be Better About These Striped Pantaloons
The stripes on the waistband where supposed to go the other direction (direction of the grain — stripes up and down). (I botched the length of the first waistband I cut.)
Though I had enough fabric to cut a THIRD waistband (this time the correct length AND on the grain), I couldn’t be bothered. It’s interfaced; it’s not going to stretch that much. *Shrug*
When I opted for a zippered fly I DID NOT include fly extensions (facings) as part of the front pants pattern piece.
This was a mistake.
“I can sew on fly facings, NBD,” I thought.
Sewing on fly facings wouldn’t have been a big deal, except that this fabric is reversible, and the opposite side is bright blue.
I made the bottom/lower/underlapped fly facing (on the right as I wear the pants) in bright blue.
When I tried on these Landers after installing the zipper for the first time, I realized a line of bright blue was visible at the fly.
The fit was fine. But, when you wear tight-ish pants with a fly, the fly seam spreads a little because the volume of a human body presses on it.
I could see the bright blue facing when the pants were zipped, and I felt so stupid. A perfect zipper installation wasted.
As you can guess, I had to disassemble the fly, cut a STRIPED bottom fly facing, and put everything back together.
And, by this point, the front and back of the pants were already sewn together, and the waistband was half sewn on.
I do not recommend sewing a fly zipper when your pants are nearly complete. Major PITA maneuvering under the needle.
I made the waistband buttonhole a little too small, so getting the button through it is a struggle.
I need to make it the teeniest bit longer, or I need to sew on a smaller button. TBD.
Last Words on Sewing Encore Lander Pants
Will I make this pattern again?
Oh yeah, baby. Count on it. Especially since I’ve got the zipper fly sitch under control.
When I last blogged about Landers, I tossed out ideas for even more iterations:
👖 Landers in denim (aka, traditional blue jeans Landers): Still would like to do this. Currently don’t have any non-stretch denim in the fabric stash.
👖 Landers in a drapier bottomweight with an invisible zipper at the side instead of a fly: I’m less sure about this, because I don’t know how the patch pockets would play out. I’m afraid they’d look a little too much like JCPenney catalog 1990s career lady pants. (TBH I don’t know where my head was when I floated this idea, LOL.)
👖 Landers with an elasticated back waistband and flat-front waistband: I stand by this as a good idea. Pull-on Landers should be a thing, especially for the cropped length. Picture them in a heavyweight linen and cropped.
Over to you, sweet sewing friend: Are you yea or nay on striped pants? Let’s hear it.
P.S. I’m thinking about sewing a vest in matching fabric, just because I can. Or maybe I should just sew a pair of Lander shorts in this striped fabric. Shorts are more practical, but a matching vest would be a statement. Thoughts?
P.P.S. The skirt in these photos is a Sie Macht Cass. Get the pattern. It’s one of SIX variations on ONE T-shirt pattern.
Nice job with the problem-solving and final product. Also love the polka dot Cass with the stripes – a real classic combo I love and giving me a bit of a ’40s vibe (one of my favorite fashion eras).
Thanks for the info/link on hickory stripes. I grew up in Oregon and knew a lot of loggers once upon a time. No, we didn’t call them lumberjacks and, no, they didn’t wear flannel (at least not to work). All the ones I knew wore Levi’s jeans and hickory twill work shirts. I thought “Hickory” was the brand because except for coming in two basic styles (button front or pull-over quarter-zip) they all looked alike. I referred to someone recently as the guy in the hickory shirt and a “city mouse” friend didn’t know what I was talking about. If only you’d finished these pants a few months ago I’d have been spared the confusing conversation that followed. But my trivia-loving brain loves having the whole picture now.
Shorts and even a vest in this fabric would be cute. Somehow, the thought of these pants and a vest in the same fabric have me remembering Justin Timberlake and Britney Spears showing up at some event in head-to-toe denim all the same color (and maybe even a denim cowboy hat?) LOL – Hmmm, maybe I should have kept that to myself; I know I often lack the ability to envision other people’s ideas and then further prove it to myself when I see the final outcome is a success.
Hi, Barbara! Thanks for reading.
Yeah, a stripe-on-stripe separates thing would look kinda like Justin and Britney’s iconic denim look. LOL
Honestly, part of the reason I’d like to make a vest is because it would be kinda weird.
I love this. “Kinda weird” describes half my wardrobe. LOL