Tracing sewing patterns is my least favorite sewing task. There, I said it.
Tracing sewing patterns is a tedious, and I almost always lose steam on a project during pattern tracing.
But, I am a committed member of Team Trace (vs. Team Cut That Stuff Out). By tracing sewing patterns, you preserve the original pattern, which is important if you’re working with a printed pattern (vs. a PDF, where you can print copies). You also have the option of tracing off additional sizes.
So that’s why I trace. But, I don’t have to like it!
Here’s a look at my ride-or-die pattern-tracing tools, some intel on sewing tracing paper, and finally a dive into my process. I hope you come away with some useful tips β and if you have useful tracing tips for ME, I hope you leave them in comments! Thanks in advance for reading and sharing your two cents.
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Tools for Tracing Sewing Patterns
When I’m deep into pattern tracing, you’ll find these tools next to me.
Pencil: Sharper is better. I prefer a pencil to a pen or marker so I can easily erase my mistakes.
Eraser: Gotta love a big, fat eraser.
Bright light: So you can see through your paper, of course. I have a full-spectrum floor lamp.
Tracing paper: See below for my opinion.
Tracing table: I have a glass-top desk and work site light that work sublimely. Check out my sewing room tour for all the details. In the past I’ve taped patterns and tracing paper to a big window, and I’ve also traced on my kitchen counter top. (Related: There are lots of decent light box options out there, should you be interested.)
Pattern Weights: Hold your pattern and tracing paper in place. I also use pattern weights to keep my tracing paper roll from rolling off the table.
Craft knife:Β I employ an X-acto for cutting out the traced pattern pieces.
Cutting mat: The surface on which I use said X-acto.
A Word on Sewing Tracing Paper
As I researched this post, I discovered a lot of sewists were internetting for info on sewing tracing paper. Here’s what I use for tracing pattern paper and my thoughts on other tracing paper for patterns.
I use Blick Studio tracing paper on a roll (pictured below). It’s not inexpensive, but it’s smooth, not too lightweight, and easy to draw on (and erase from). I also like going to the art supply store to buy it because it makes me feel like a cool, artsy kid.
I’ve also used Swedish tracing paper, which is somewhere between tracing paper and a dryer sheet in texture. What’s great about Swedish tracing paper is that you can sew it, so it can act as a (woven) muslin. A word of caution β it’s not drapey, so take that into consideration if you’d like to use it as a muslin for a drapey fabric.
Medical paper β the kind of paper you see on the padded table at a doctor’s office β also is popular for tracing sewing patterns. It’s inexpensive; at the time of this post’s publication, a case of 12 21-inch-by-225-feet medical paper rolls was $41.68. My concern is that medical exam table paper is not designed for tracing. It’s not as transparent as tracing paper, probably not great for erasing, and tears easily. But the money savings, guys!
Technique for Tracing Sewing Patterns
Here’s my process for pattern tracing.
1.) Make It Smooth
If you’re using a printed pattern (i.e., not a PDF pattern), give it a gentle press with a dry, low-heat iron to smooth most wrinkles.
2.) Weigh It Down
I arrange my tracing paper atop my pattern, taking into considering how I’ll need to move my hand, arm, and body as I trace. Once I’m happy with positioning, I place my weights (they’re washers, pictured above). I use more pattern weights than I probably need to prevent shifting. This also is important if you must step away from tracing.
3.) Dash It All
When tracing sewing patterns, I don’t create a solid line. Instead, I draw a dashed line in the interest of speed and hand fatigue. Think about it: If you draw a dashed line (vs. a solid line), you’re likely drawing half as much! Mind = blown.
4.) Make Your Mark
First I trace an outline of the pattern piece. Then I go back and add notches, darts, etc. Then I make sure I’ve properly labeled the pattern designer, name of pattern, pattern piece type (e.g., front, cuff), letter or number of pattern piece (e.g., A, B, 1 β important because instructions often refer to pattern piece A, etc.), and how many and what type of pieces to cut (e.g., cut 2, cut 1 interfacing). Speaking from experience, it’s a MAJOR bummer to be assembling fabric pattern pieces and realize that you didn’t mark any notches. #rage
5.) Cut It Out
In the words of Uncle Joey, I then cut it out, with an X-acto.
Over to you: Are you Team Trace or Team Cut That Stuff Out? What’s your fave tracing tool or tip? Comment away, my dears!
P.S. Here’s the previous Sie Macht post, should you be interested:Β 53 Gifts for Sewists: The Ultimate Guide to Gifts for Sewing Lovers.
P.P.S. If you like this post, you’ll probably like this one, too:Β The Fastest Way to Assemble PDF Sewing Patterns [VIDEO].
I usually trace my indie patterns. Often I cut the ones I can get more inexpensively (i.e., .99 or 1.99).
That’s a great strategy. Thanks for bringing it up! And thanks for reading. ππ
Very nice and thorough explanation β thanks so much! I was wondering why you use an X-Acto instead of a rotary cutter β simple preference or is there another reason?
Hey, Rebecca! Thanks for reading! I use an X-acto because I only use my rotary cutter on fabric. Same principle as having a designated scissors for fabric – so your blade isn’t dulled on paper. Good question.
Maybe next level for me would me having a rotary cutter for PAPER… π€
I just watched a Mimi G video where she mentioned when her rotary blades (for cutting fabrics) get dull, she just sets them aside and they become the new rotary blades for paper cutting. I thought it was a nice way to save money and recycle.
Using dashed lines is genius! I’ve been on Team Trace, at least for paper patterns, ever since I made some alterations on a precious $30 Vogue pattern that didn’t work and completely ruined my (really expensive!) pattern. Tracing paper is a LOT cheaper than the cost of printing paper & ink that I use to print .pdf patterns, so I don’t feel guilty. I purchased a roll of canary yellow tracing paper from the Blick’s site a few years ago that was just a little bit lighter in weight, which made it easier to work with for alterations. I didn’t see it the last time I looked at their site, but it may be there. Or I’ll check Amazon for it.
I use little dabs of paper surgical tape (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H2G4PNI/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) on the corners of the pattern pieces to hold them in place on my table, and tape the tracing paper (also Blick’s) down to keep it shifting so much. I also use weights – mine look just like yours! We must have gotten them from the same place :-). Then I go through and mark all the notches first, so I have registration marks that show if the paper has shifted. Can you tell I’m a little paranoid about shifting? It happens when I lean over to reach the far side and my boobs drag the paper out of place.
I have a pair of (left-handed) paper scissors purchased from Amazon just for the purpose of cutting out traced patterns. (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IZ7JUHE/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1) Bonus: it was a set of 2, so now I have left-handed paper scissors at my desk. They were $15, now $17, but I’m sure you could get the right-handed version for ~ $7. I’m just not very dexterous with an exacto knife or rotary cutter.
Thanks for the great info on pattern tracing!
Kay, I LOVE your tip on marking the notches & whatnot first! Brilliant! Will be putting that into effect post haste. And that’s a good way to make sure you don’t forget to mark those marks – I overlook them too often. And it’s SUCH a bummer to be cutting fabric and realize you must have forgotten notches. GAH. I’m with you on shifting, too. That’s why I always overweigh my paper.
RE: surgical tape – I use a similar product all the time – painter’s tape (the blue, low-tack stuff). I’m thinking, though, that surgical tape probably is less expensive. You’ve given me food for thought.
Yeah, I think I got my mega washers at Home Depot (or another home improvement store). I keep them in a pretty handmade (not by me) dish. They’re an elegant and inexpensive tool – pretty much the best kind. πππ
Thanks so much for reading and leaving a great comment!
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I just watched a Mimi G video where she mentioned when her rotary blades (for cutting fabrics) get dull, she just sets them aside and they become the new rotary blades for paper cutting. I thought it was a nice way to save money and recycle.
Hmmm… I like this… Thanks for the tip! A rotary cutter is my fave cutting tool. π
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In addition to the supplies you listed, I use straight and curved rulers. I don’t do dashes, but have found using rulers makes the tracing much faster, smoother and more accurate.
Great point. You can fly with rulers. Thanks for reading. π
I became Team Trace after losing 55 pounds and trying to reconfigure patterns to my small in the shoulders larger bust and even larger hips. I tape the patterns to a patio door with tracing paper over. I use rulers to make the effort speed up. Marking all the notations is the most important. My next project is to take a simple blouse pattern and try a FBA for better fit. Always learning something new. Just discovered this newsletter and excited to read more.
Hi, Sally! Thanks for reading, and thanks for sharing your process. π
I rarely buy tissue patterns anymore, but I have started tracing them when I do use them, now. I love Kayβs idea to use surgical tape to hold the tissue down AND marking notches first!!! Yesterday I didn’t see tiny dots through my brown tracing paper (recycled from a banner shopβs printer). I was sooooo aggravated to have to go back and unroll my huge pattern to find little dots while trying to make the tester. Iβm 99% team trace – unless itβs something I donβt need to fit and o know I wonβt be making it again.
Hey, Heather! Thanks for reading! I feel your pain when it comes to going back to the paper pattern after tracing. I’ve done that about a gazillion times after realizing I forgot a critical match point! #rage
After Kay’s hot tip on marking notches FIRST, I haven’t made this mistake again.