I was a lucky pattern tester for the Victory Patterns Esther pants! Victory Patterns released these wide-legged trousers as part of its three-piece Arima capsule collection, which also features a modular knit top/dress and oversized cardigan/robe, which I sewed:Β Victory Patterns Samara Cardigan in Blue Merino.
The collection is modern, glamorous, and wearable, all at the same time. I don’t know how Victory finds this balance, but it’s happening!
Here’s my take on the Victory Patterns Esther pants.
RELATED: Check Out Sie Macht’s Project Gallery of Bottoms Sewing Patterns
Construction Details
I sewed the Victory Patterns Esther pants in slubby Tencel twill denim from Blackbird Fabrics. It’s lighter weight but has heavy drape that works great for the Esther pattern. The Tencel is cool to the touch and makes a “fuh-whomp” sounds when I walk quickly, mostly because of the volume of the trousers. It amuses me.
I sewed a size 6. The pants are drafted for a human 5-feet-6 to 5-feet-9; I took 2 inches out of the total length so I could wear them with flats. (I almost always hem for flats so my pants don’t drag.)
The pattern calls for an invisible zipper, butΒ I did a lapped zipper. I prefer a lapped zipper; I like its vintage vibe. My regret is that my lapped-zipper execution could be better. The zip pull peeks out ever so slightly. Any tips/tutorials on how to avoid this problem?
I added contrasting stitching around the lapped zipper, front vertical seams, and pockets. I wanted to play up the “jeans” soul with gold topstitching.
In case you didn’t know, Esther comes with a cropped view and an optional waist sash. I think the sash works particularly well with the mega pleats and drapey fabric.
RELATED: Read About My Experience with Other Victory Patterns
What I Love About the Victory Patterns Esther Pants
Pleats, Please
This is my first go at sewing pleats, and I super love these pleats! So dramatic! So unusual! Seriously β when was the last time you saw pleats like these? My hat tips to Victory Patterns for this bold design element.
Front Seam
This also is a design element that knocks me out. I love a good front pants seam, and I think seams are underused as design elements. I liked the front seams so much I adding topstitching around them and pressed them for added oomph.
Pockets
The construction of these pockets is cool. The pocket bags are a single piece, non-symmetrical piece, and they’re finished with French seams. I am a sucker for a French seam.
Directions and Support
If you’ve never had the extreme pleasure of sewing a Victory Patterns pattern, get on that ASAP, m’kay? The directions are SO GOOD. They’re thorough. The illustrations are clear and well labeled. All sewn elements are broken down in thoughtful, manageable steps.
And designer Kris Boos is the best. When I started sewing my Esther pants, I gave the crotch some side eye. The crotch length seemed extra long to me, and I expressed my concern to Boos. She shortened the crotch and provided me with detailed instructions AND illustrations on how to make the crotch adjustments so I wouldn’t have to reprint the PDF!
RELATED:Β Pattern Fitting Tips for Woven Jogger Pants (Pivot-and-Slide Method)
What I’m Not Sure About
Scrubs?
This was my first time sewing with Tencel, and while I like the fabric, I worry I chose the wrong color Tencel. From a distance, I’m concerned these pants look like hospital scrubs. It’s the light-blue-baggy-bottoms combo. I didn’t realize this until I put them on the first time. Guys, did I sew fancy scrubs?
PDF Woes
This is a 55-page PDF pattern. It takes a while to tape/glue together. My heart sank when I realized how many pages it was, but that’s what happens when you sew a PDF pants pattern. Ya got to put on some fun TV and go to town. IMO, the Victory Patterns Esther pants are a good candidate for copy shop printing.
Pumped-Up Volume
Even after the crotch-length adjustment, I still thought there was too much volume everywhere. In an email to pattern testers, Boos said she removed additional ease in the leg fullness in the final version (the pants you’re looking at are a test version, to clear that up). The Esther pants on the model do look more sleek than my pants.
Not My Style?
In my feedback to Boos on the pattern, I told her I didn’t understand the pattern. The original technical drawing of the pattern had legs that flared ever so slightly. But when I made the pattern, the pants where straight or even a little tapered.
I thought the Esther pants were going to be Katharine Hepburn-esque. Between the volume and straight (not flared) leg, they look more zoot suit to me. Turns out, the tech drawing the pattern testers saw was incorrect; the drawing was redrawn to reflect the pattern’s true shape.
I told Boos I needed to road test my pants, and that maybe they were too far out of my comfort zone. I didn’t think the pattern was a dud β perhaps it wasn’t a good pattern for me.
Looking at the photos now, I’m liking my Esther pants more and more. Styling them in a more formal way with heels helps a lot. I think they’d be super cute paired with a crop top. Yay, high-rise pants! Maybe I needed some time away from them to see their potential in my wardrobe.
Over to you, dear sewing friends: How would you style these pants? What have you sewn that’s been out of your comfort zone? How did you handle it? Help a girl out!
P.S. If you like this pattern, you might be interested in Boundless Style, the mix-and-match sewing pattern book from Victory Patterns. (This is an affiliate link, but I bought the book with my own money.) I blogged about a project from Boundless Style right here:Β The Boundless Style Maxi Dress: Lady in Red. If you’re into dramatic dresses, this is your jam.
P.P.S. In case you missed it, here’s the previous post: Sew with the Flow: Sewing for Your Period. I’ve received great feedback on this post. Why not check it out for yourself and LMK YOUR top sewing projects for making your period more stylish and comfortable!
P.P.P.S. Introducing the Esther Pants Dance!
good job! you might try them in an even drapier fabric to relive some of the baggy feel and dress them up. heels and a skinny turtleneck would also be fun. keep up the great posts–loved the dance!
Thanks for reading, Nancy! I like the notion of using an even drapier fabric for more vertical vs. horizontal flow (if that makes sense). Great tip!
I seriously love the boldness of your Esther pants – they’re making me take another look at the pattern. I didn’t think scrubs until you said it, but you could always peg/roll up your cuffs if it continues to bother you!
Thanks, Lia! There’s view for Esther with cropped legs and a tie waist that looks NOTHING like scrubs. You’re on to something with pegging the legs.
Thanks so much for the thorough blog post! I’ve been thinking of trying the Esther pants in Tencel Twill II from Blackbird fabrics, so this was a perfect read for me. Much appreciated. They look awesome and not at all like scrubs! π
Hey, Jess – thanks for reading! I say go for it with the Tencel twill. You won’t be sorry! Which version are you going to make? Please IG tag me or message/email me with your Esther progress! I want to creep on you.
And thanks for saying they don’t look like scrubs. π
i do think the colour is a bit scrubs but theyre awesome pants. maybe you could dip dye them or dye them a darker indigo colour to reflect your non surgical career path. cos when we are all wearing masks these days it might be too much!! theyre super fancy. the only thing i would do differently is that the wasitline dropping down at the front seems wrong i would give you a higher waist at the front and i would also want the front panel to be flattened ..i can see the grain of the fabric looks like there is a bit added at the front seam to allow for tummy whihc is great but i would add that somewhere else and let the front fabric stay straight ..i know its on the bias but you know what i mean…i would have it the same diagonal at the bottom of the front seam as at the top. if that makes sense. i also feel like the top stitching in the middle of the pleat confuses the drape of the pleat which i dont think is meant to have a straigt edge in the middle… it looks more like its supposed to be a soft drap pleat than an ironed in pleat situation. i would also love to see more taper at the ends as an option and even perhaps dare i dream? i tulip hem? i just think that would go so well with the shape of the pleat drape. but id definitely drop the back or give more height to the front to make the waist level from the side..as someone with somewhat of a tummy myself this is often a problem in clothes for me and it tends ot make me look like my posture is all wonky {which it probably is a bit, god a big of a duck sscenario going on} but the low front waist accentuates that and the even waist tends to lessen it. i cannot wait to try this pattern i am going to see how i might ad a tulip hem to it. ive been using tailor nova to work some adjustments and the patterns have worked ok… but theyre so limited..they dont even have a hem option…does anyone know where i might find a tulip hem tutorial for patterning?
well enjoy your new pants and dont forget you are not a surgeon!!
Thanks for leaving a comment! I’ve thought about dyeing these pants. The longer I’ve had them, the more they’ve grown on me – color and everything.
I agree – a tulip hem here could be really cool. @sallieoleta on Instagram put together a highlight of relaxed-fit pants that might interest you – https://www.instagram.com/stories/highlights/17857231955139600/. I definitely could see a tulip hem on the Arthur pants from Sew Liberated (https://sewliberated.com/products/arthur-pants-digital-sewing-pattern).