The sewing pattern for May’s installment of Project #SewMyStyleΒ is the Cali Faye Collection Pocket skirt. For me, it’s been the most difficult pattern so far (keep reading for details on why!).
I am happy with how it turned out, and I predict my Pocket skirt will get a lot of wear this summer; it is part of my spring/summer sewingΒ capsule after all! I have a vision of myself wearing it on a hotΒ night and enjoying breezes as they pass through the linen-blend bottom.
In this post, I cover constructionΒ details for the Cali Faye Collection Pocket skirt, share what I love about the skirt, and highlight what could be better. AND β I also give handy-dandy tips for using basting tape, a sewing notion that helped elevate my finished product!
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Making the Cali Faye Collection Pocket skirt
Pattern description
This lightly gatheredΒ skirt with two front patch pockets is relaxed, with plentyΒ of ease in the hips. The waistband falls between the high hip and waist (but not at the natural waist), and it’s not particularly snug (at least not on me). The back waistband encases a strip of wide elastic. The pattern includes a side zipper and a two-inch hem. If you’d like moreΒ coverage (asΒ the finished length is well above the knee),Β give yourself more length to play with.
Fabric selection
I used a soft 50 percent linen-50 percent rayon blend from Jo-Ann. The pattern calls for aΒ lightweight woven and says it was designed with linen in mind.
Size
I did some recon on Instagram RE: the Pocket skirt, and a sewist who shares my waist and hipΒ measurements said she wished she had sewn a small instead of a medium. So that’s what I did, because I wanted the skirt to sit close to my natural waist.
ConstructionΒ notes
I used ALL THE PRESSER FEET to sew this skirt β and I liked it. I used my seam guide foot (my everyday foot), zipper foot, stitch-in-the-ditch foot, overlock foot (my sewing machine has a rad overlock stitch), and blind hem foot. Each foot had a special job, andΒ I’m glad I had them all in my toolbox.
What could be better about the Pocket skirt
Clarity of directions
The Pocket skirt is for intermediate sewists, and that’s no joke. I eventually abandoned the directions and followed my instincts. And I still spent a ton of time with my seam ripper. This pattern would frustrate aΒ beginner sewist. Here’s an example of what I’m talking about:
I take issue with “The opposite side of the zipper should lay on the inside of the skirt.” Doesn’t that sound like is should lay on the WRONG SIDE of the garment?Β Imagine ifΒ you were a novice sewist and didn’t have the accompanying illustration! IMO, that whole sentence should be removed; it’sΒ confusing.
I don’t have time to rewriteΒ the sewing pattern directionsΒ in this blog post.Β My advice for sewists interested in making a Pocket skirt is to baste a lot and think about how the waistband layersΒ will end up. The waistband is secured with a line of ditch stitching. Move in that direction, and you’ll be OK.
As a side note, sewists participating in #SewMyStyle have two more Cali Faye Collection patterns to sew, and I’m concerned about the quality of those directions, too. We’re stitching the Valley blouse and Hampshire trousers; anybody have experience with those patterns and care to give me some advice?
Illustrations
This pattern needs technical illustrations. Technical illustrations would help describe proportions of the skirt and waistΒ height.Β TheΒ directions also would benefit from more illustrations, especially a cross-sectionΒ showingΒ the order of layers when sewing the elastic.
What I love about the Pocket skirt
Blind hem
I opted for a blind hem, and I love it. I’m a recent convert to blind hems; I used to think topstitching was a great way to show off your sewing skills. Topstitching IS a great way to show off sewing skills, but a blind hem add an air of sophistication, no matter the garment. For the relaxed Pocket skirt, a blind hem makes it feel a little more polished.
Topstitching
Speaking of topstitching, I adore the topstitching on the pockets. If you were feeling cheeky,Β contrasting thread would be a cool design element.
Sewing lesson: How to useΒ basting tape like a pro
Speaking of topstitching AGAIN, toΒ nail that glorious topstitching on the pockets, I used basting tape (specifically, I used Dritz Wash-Away Wonder Tape). Basting tape is a narrow, double-sided tape good for positioning and holding in place objects to be sewn.Β Using basting tape isΒ like having extra fingers that keep your business (such as patch pockets on the Pocket skirt) from shifting while sewing. It’s definitely a must-have in a well-appointed sewing toolbox!
There are lots of different basting tape products β some are marketed to quilters, there’s a Clover tapeΒ co-branded with Nancy Zieman, etc. I like tape that washes away; not all of it does, so pay attention when you’re buying basting tape.
Once you’ve got basting tape in your hot little hands, here’s how to use it like a boss (in no particular order):
1.) Cut basting tape into small strips. It’s easier to place many small strips of tape (1-2 inches) than one large strip.
2.) Apply basting tape strips to your sewing project BEFORE removing backing. It’s easier to peel off the backing when one side of the double-sided tape is adhered to fabric.
3.) Press the ends of the short tape strips HARD with your fingernail before peeling the backing. That way, you’ll only remove the backing and not peel up the tape.
4.) Pin for added security. IMO, basting tape isn’t a substitute for pins; itΒ helps hold stuff in place while you’re pinning AND sewing.
5.) Test before applying to your fabric. This could be especially important with delicate, sheer, and thin fabrics.
6.) Line up your reference points. For correct alignment of whatever you’re stitching, pin at notches, etc. before pressing down on the tape.
7.) You will feel the basting tape on your pins and sewing needle. It will take more force to pierce the fabric and tape; with this in mind, consider switching to a slightlyΒ bigger sewing needle or longer stitch.
Over to you: Did you sew theΒ Cali Faye Collection Pocket skirt? What did you make of the directions? Are you fan of basting tape? What’s your fave basting tape tip? Please sound off in comments! Thanks!
P.S. ICYMI,Β here’s my last post:Β Buying an iron for sewing: 5 irons less than $100 from Amazon. If you’re on the market for a new iron, check it out!
P.P.S. Here are my other Project #SewMyStyle garments!
Bridgetown backless, the forever dress
Becoming a (Manila) leggings person for Project #SewMyStyle
Named Saunio cardigan: Harder than it looks
Sew House Seven Toaster Sweater #2: The stylish sweatshirt
P.P.P.S. Ever wonder what it’s like to be a “glamourous” sewing blogger responsible for styling and shooting her own photos? It’s like this.Β π
Your skirt is really lovely, it goes especially well with that top.
Thank you! It’s also a me-made item – the Seafarer top from Sew Much Ado.
Thanks for reading!