Scuba knit fabric is having a moment. It’s showing up at my local Jo-Ann, and Threads magazine ran a big scuba knit article in late 2016. Now is the time for sewists to investigate tips for working with scuba fabric!
I used scuba knit to sew the Victory Patterns Jackie dress (see above). I’d never worked with scuba, and it took some research to figure out best pressing practices. That’s when I decided to write all MY tips for working with scuba fabric.
So, dear sewing friends, keep reading to learn scuba knit basics, how to press scuba knit, and more tips for working with scuba fabric.
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Scuba knit fabric: The facts
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Scuba knit isn’t for scuba diving or swimming. It’s a stable mid-weight double knit that’s easy to cut and sew, and it often comes in vibrant prints (see above). A double knit is two knit fabrics knitted together.
Scuba knit is synthetic. The scuba knit for my dress is 94 percent polyester and 6 percent spandex. It has about 75 percent stretch on the cross grain and about 20 percent stretch on the grain.
The surface of scuba knit is smooth, moderately slippery, and spongey. Scuba has medium drape and a nice spring to it.
Techno knit, which is lighter weight and drapier than scuba, and scuba knit sometimes are called neoprene. But, in the case of day-to-day garment sewing, neoprene fabric for wetsuits IS NOT the same as scuba knit.
My scuba knit Victory Patterns Jackie easily charges with static electricity (a common trait of poly). A mist with water takes care of static. A dryer sheet probably also would do the trick.
What do you use scuba fabric for?
Any pattern that calls for a double knit probably would be a good candidate for scuba knit. Many double knits are good as bottoms and lightweight jackets, because they have more body (vs. more drape) and greater fabric weight than other knits.
I think scuba knit would be great for a pencil skirt, especially a scuba with a loud pattern. It would hug your hips just the right way AND obscure pantyline. Scuba also could modernize a moto jacket or blazer. Stretchy scuba knit sometimes is used for swimwear. As a straight top, though, scuba probably would be too heavy.
Is scuba fabric breathable? Is scuba fabric good for summer?
Scuba fabric is made from polyester (and often blended with spandex). Because of this, it’s not breathable. IMO, scuba fabric is not good for summer… unless you use it in a sleeveless top, dress, or other sewing pattern that lets sweat escape via exposed skin. If you’re not a Sweaty Betty, scuba knit in hot temps might not bother you.
RELATED: How Do I Choose a Knit Fabric?
Notions and more for sewing scuba knits
Here’s what I used to sew my scuba knit dress:
Thread
I used brown, all-purpose, 100 percent polyester Gütermann thread. For topstitching, I used hot pink, all-purpose, 100 percent poly Coats & Clark thread. Polyester is strong… and it’s what I had on hand.
Needles
I used a Schmetz stretch needle, size 90/14. For the armholes, I used a Schmetz stretch twin needle, size 4,0/75.
I think my twin needle was going bad (I used it on my Named Saunio cardigan), because when I started the hem, my stitches skipped like mad. Even after experimenting with tension and stitch length, the stitches still skipped so badly that I aborted the twin needle and did two parallel lines of regular (non-stretch) straight stitching instead.
Stitches
I sewed my Victory Patterns Jackie with my machine’s “lightning” stretch stitch (2 millimeters wide, 4 millimeters long). (Naturally, I tested this stitch before committing to it, and you should do the same when you sew with scuba!)
Back to that non-stretch stitching on the hem — I never would recommend a non-stretch straight stitch for a knit. But the Jackie hem doesn’t need to stretch, so I thought I’d go for it. The bobbin thread is a little loopy (see above); we’ll see how it holds up.
Cutting scuba knit
My rotary cutters (60 millimeter and 45 millimeter) sliced through scuba knit like butter. For the small curves and corners, the petite 45 millimeter cutter was a godsend.
How to press scuba knit
Like I mentioned, I researched how to press scuba knit before I got underway on Jackie. Here’s what worked for me:
1.) Use the wool/silk setting and steam to press scuba knit. Scuba took steam well — better than I anticipated for polyester. Maybe because it’s spongy?
2.) Spread the seams with your fingers to ensure the seams are as flat as possible, oh-so-gently tugging them apart.
3.) Press, but don’t get too aggressive. Heat plus pressure plus spreading could damage your scuba fabric. (Bonus points for using a pressing cloth!)
4.) Use a tailor’s clapper to lock in the pressing. If you’re pressing on a curve or sleeve, employ a tailor’s ham or seam roll (respectively). (I use a hardwood child’s building block as my clapper, because that’s what I have on hand! My boys don’t miss it.)
As with most fabrics, press first on the wrong side and then switch to the right side (if necessary).
For the neckline and center back, I rolled the seam slightly to the inside (see above) to ensure the facing didn’t roll out. (I also understitched with a zig-zag, per the instructions.) I took my time in these areas for the best finish possible.
Because scuba is thick, it’s important to take care and patience while pressing for professional results.
Advanced tips for working with scuba fabric
Grading and trimming
Scuba knit is beefy. When you get multiple layers of scuba, your machine could struggle.
Grading and trimming seam allowances keeps your machine happy, stitches unskipped, and seams smooth from the right side of your garment.
Interfacing
I used Pellon EK130 Easy-Knit. It added stability to the stretchy fabric. It ironed on well and hasn’t bubbled in the wash.
Finishing
Scuba knit doesn’t ravel, so there’s no need to finish seams. You can leave hems and other edges unfinished, too. Depending on your pattern, I think a raw hem in scuba knit could look very modern — I picture a raw hem peplum. Wouldn’t that be cool?
How do you care for scuba fabric?
I washed my Victory Patterns Jackie dress on a cold delicate cycle with delicates detergent. I let it air dry on a rack. (I let most of my sewing makes air dry.)
On Jo-Ann’s website, the care guide for my specific fabric says: “Machine wash gentle cold, non-chlorine bleach, line dry, cool iron.”
And those are all my tips for working with scuba fabric! What would you add? What other sewing patterns are great with scuba knit? Please share in comments for the benefit of other sewists! Thanks!
P.S. ICYMI, here’s the post about my scuba knit dress: Victory Patterns Jackie dress: Diving into scuba knit.
P.P.S. If you like this sewing guide post, you might like these, too:
Sewing patterns for yoga clothes: 4 yoga sewing patterns, side by side
The over-researched sewing table buying guide for the Type A sewist
53 gifts for sewists: The ultimate guide to gifts for sewing lovers
Thank you for the tips for sewing with Scuba, Erin. This week, I am making a dress for the first time for my best friend which uses a plum colored scuba material. I am nervous in using the material so your information here was very helpful.
I do have a question and wonder if you have any advise to help with it. The dress pattern I draped has four draped folds across the chest area going across it from the left shoulder to under the right arm. This material is thicker when doubled up in a fold so the drapes all add quite a bit of bulk to them when you figure there are four folds.
Do you have any advice on how to take out some of the weight in the material so that it is not so bulky on the chest area? It tends to stand out too much and not lay down very well. Your steam/press suggestions may help with that, but do you have any other suggestions?
Thank you.
Travis
You’re welcome for the tips, Travis! Thanks for reading.
RE: Removing bulk. Hrm. That’s kind of a head scratcher for me. Because you’re draping, it sounds like you have control over the design of the dress, correct? If this is the case, you can do anything you’d like to solve this problem, so that’s good news!
Instead of folds, could you have have four panels that look like folds? Maybe you could discreetly tack them in place. Or maybe you could trim away some of the folded fabric that’s not visible so that your needle/machine don’t have to struggle so much. Another thought – scuba does’t ravel, so you could have some fun with raw edges (if it works for your design). I don’t know if that helps with the bulk issue, but it’s something to think about. You also could reduce the folds to three from four. The front of the dress might lie flatter if each fold were wider.
You also could try flattening bulk with a hammer and then sewing. I would test this first, though. I would test anything you’ve got kicking around your head before trying it on your fashion fabric.
Good luck, and let me know how it goes! Sounds very cool!
Hi, I loved your article and was hoping I could get a little advice. I sewed up a lovely black dress, but a rambunctious puppy with rough pads greeted me while I was wearing it, and now it has a fuzzy look in places. Do you know of any strategies for smoothing the fabric back down?
Oh no, a puppy with craggy pads! YIKES.
Hmm, I don’t know of anything to smooth down fabric other than a lint shaver (like the kind you’d use on a pilly sweater). The lint shaver actually removes fabric, so you have to be careful with it.
I wonder if there’s a fabric conditioner you could apply? Or maybe you could almost block it out after you take it out of the wash by rubbing your hands over it?
Could you call the distress a design feature and maybe add more fuzz so it didn’t stand out so much?
Try asking this question in the Pattern Review forums; someone might have a solution for you! Good luck, and thanks for reading.
I want to try Scuba so your blog was very interesting. I like the idea of a thicker fabric for pants. I have “heard” that scuba is not very breathable so feels hot to the wearer. Have you found this is true? I tend to be over warm so I don’t need to build a sweat box.
Susan, thanks for reading!
RE scuba + heat: The pattern I made with scuba was a sleeveless dress with loose (i.e., not tight) skirt. There’s a lot of air moving around, so it’s not really a hot garment.
If you tend to run hot, I would be a little concerned about wearing scuba. IMO, comfortably wearing scuba is all about pattern choice. So, for example, if I were sewing scuba pants/bottoms, I would go with something cropped and loose to guarantee a lot of air flow. I could see a pair of pull-on culottes being a good pattern for scuba – maybe a hack of the Winslow culottes from Helen’s Closet?
I think with scuba you have to make sure you’ve got air moving and skin exposed so you don’t overheat.
Another note about scuba – because it’s poly, it can be majorly staticy.
What pattern were you thinking about? Was my reply helpful?
Super blog, Erin. Thanks so much for the excellent tips. I’m going to start a project for client using scuba (I’m new to this fabric since I mostly make bridesmaid/bridal). This project is a suit jacket (simple style) with flounced sleeve and a pencil skirt. My question: have you ever embroidered on scuba? I have a home embroidery machine and want to get a stipple-effect on the flounces for the sleeve using gold twist thread (it’s going to have a gold metallic zipper down the front). I’ll do a sample but best-looking stippling can be done with embroidery machine (I’m not a good quilter). Any suggestions on upper and lower thread tension?
Hi, Sheryl! Thanks for reading!
Your scuba project sounds cool. I think scuba would take embroidery well because it’s so stable.
As for tension, I don’t have advice other than to test and test some more. You’ll want to include a stabilizer in tests, of course. Presser foot pressure might be a factor, too. I wish I had more insight, but I’ve never used an embroidery machine.
I suggest joining the Self-Sewn Wardrobe group on Facebook. The ladies who run it are former sewing machine dealers with TONS of embroidery experience.
Good luck!
Hi Erin! Thank for York this article! I recently decided to try scuba as a more tailored warm up jacket for my figure skating daughter. Made a lovely turtle neck color with a peplum. However, my Sparkle Queen has requested sparkle as plain black just doesn’t suit her “style”. Do you any tips for applying stones or appliqué? I don’t typically work with stones so this is a challenge all around. Would a hot fix machine work or perhaps a good glue? Thank you!
Michelle, thanks for reading! I think a warm-up jacket in scuba would be cool!
RE: Sparkles – I have no idea. I’ve never worked with blingy materials; sorry! I suggest asking the question in either the Self-Sewn Wardrobe FB group (https://www.facebook.com/groups/SelfSewnWardrobe) or posting to PatternReview.com in a forum.
Good luck!
Hi, thanks for this useful post. I am a bit confused about when to use scuba fabric vs traditional lycra fabric (perhaps with a lining), do you choose depending on your project? Or can one be substituted by another? Please let me know if you have any tips on this 🙂 thank you.
Hi, Vivi! Thanks for reading. I think scuba knit is better for sewing patterns that stand a bit away from your body. Scuba has more body/stiffness than a lot of Lycra knits. If a pattern calls for a knit with a lot of drape or fluidity, scuba might not be a good choice. BUT – it depends on your preferences, so I say, test and test some more!
Good luck!